Shoulder length sling climbing reddit height Southern Spain, some multi pitches, all sport climbing. Voila. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together I have 6 alpines (60cm/ shoulder length sling, Camp Photons on both sides), and my main partners have at least 6 if not more. Feb 23, 2022 · 10 shoulder-length slings; 1 double-sided gear sling; 3 double-length slings; 1 60m x 10. Ignore the cam racking carabiner, just let it hang there unused. They are 60cm. My trad sling stash consists of 6 floppy, thin quickdraws, 8 single length alpines, and 2 double length alpines. daisy chains (2 per person) aiders (6 per team of two) ascenders (2 per person) fifi hook; helmet; comfy, well-padded harness with detachable leg loops You can use a bungee or a double length sling or two shoulder length slings. Depends on your local climbing area. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. Yep what this guy said also you can just throw a sling over your shoulder for anything you want to attach higher up, pretty common when trad and aid climbing Posted by u/baffled88 - 6 votes and 15 comments That doesn’t leave any left for the actual climbing. Shoes piled up in a wire basket. Sport draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. Sounds complicated, and like you carry too many alpines. Jun 3, 2022 · To extend your device, use a double-shoulder-length sling or your personal anchor system (PAS). I had consultations with two different surgeons, both recommended that I do PT instead of surgery for the following reasons 1) young, and good chance of rehab 2) surgery introduces risks of complications 3) if I crashed on that shoulder again and broke the repair, I'd be worse off than if I didn't IMO, the main reason we don't use a sliding X on trad is due to speed. Reply Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. Girth-hitch the sling through the two tie-in points on your harness and snug it up, keeping the bar tack close to your belay loop (fig. I usually bring 3 120s, extension is your friend in easy terrain, rope drag is your enemy. Posted by u/AutoModerator - 7 votes and 168 comments Posted by u/AutoModerator - 5 votes and 286 comments Just one double length Alpine draw made with a sewn sling can be used in so so so many ways. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Another strategy is learning some basic aid climbing. This gets you a "minimal single rack". 6 24-inch “shoulder-length” slings (nylon or Dyneema). In this thread you can ask any climbing… 173 votes, 41 comments. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. Futzing with over the shoulder slings sucks more then carrying an extra 10 carabiners. 2–3 extra locking carabiners 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket(s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. 6 million pounds. Dynema is amazing. Mar 13, 2024 · Single-length slings should be the mainstay of your sling collection. Try doubling one sling, extending it with a quickdraw, or girth-hitching a second sling to the Mtnoutlet. Alpine draws are made with single length slings (also called shoulder length). And for reference, he's climbed El Cap a few more times than you. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. 4 cm), 16" (40. If you dont have the money or the strength to spare for a shoulder sling and a double shoulder length sling, butbyou have the money and strength for an extra draw, you are asking for trouble or a bad time. Right now I have been sport climbing and now how to lead and clean routes, and soon will get into 2-3 pitch of sport only climbing. I’ve never understood why everyone seems to place a cam then clips the draw to the cam sling rather than just preload say a bunch of double length slings with one biner to the racking biner and essentially lightening the rack and making it easier/more efficient to clip and continue climbing. eg. Anyway, shoulder feels bomber now and better than the 'healthy' one! Good luck with the surgery and LMK if you've any other questions. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. You can double up the sling by putting a half twist in and then one loop over the other, but with this method, you’ll likely find that one loop will grow longer than the other and then get in the way or slowly strangle you. e. E. See full list on outdoorgearlab. 240cm is plenty of 11 votes, 390 comments. He climbed another 40 or 50 feet, built an anchor, and then pulled up his rope, only to find it had been chopped. Whether or not you want to do climbing-specific training during down time depends on your psyche, what worked for me was mixing it up with other activities I enjoy until I felt good enough to climb harder again. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. But strength is returning, I can do a set of 10 pullups. If a route is bolted closely enough, I can aid to the next clip. 5 can vary from 0. 3 to 0. , if the bolt line is not straight, longer draws can ameliorate some of the drag instead of the rope zig zagging between the bolts, the longer draws will assist; or if the route goes over big roofs the rope will hopefully run a bit smoother. shoulder lengths (1 locker apiece), 2 sport draws, 25' of cordelette, at least one of the dbl shoulder slings from knotted tube webbing. What do I need for my trip in 2 weeks time? I refused to ever do surgery and have generally been 1000% times more careful in my activities, for example, no running sports, no chaotic movements (very hard for a kid in his 20s) Ive been climbing for 5 years now, with my last dislocation being about. 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. If you already have some QDs from sport climbing, you can bring those, but I rarely do. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. I normally bring 6-8 alpine draws for clipping bolts, nuts and other protection that requires two carabiners. If 10 feet extension from each bolt isn't enough and you are on the correct route, before grabbing a huge piece of static or another cordalette, carefully double check those bolts because Exactly. Clip the other two biners around the lower section (should be 4 strands) then rope goes into those biners. I say nylon because it has some elasticity if you accidentally shock load it. 9 years ago. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. These are generally used to extend placements and make alpine draws. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. I'm planning to buy some pro (a mix of cams and… For single length slings (2'), you can either put them over one shoulder (with or w/o 1 carabiner each), or double them up on 2 carabiners each: i. g. Then I take my double lengths, fold in half, and then overhand them all together. Personal preference, I guess. Carry a few single length slings over a shoulder with one carabiner attached. They’re sized to fit neatly over one shoulder and give approximately 24 inches of extension when clipped with a biner on each end. I strap my microtrax to two shoulder-length slings slung bandolier style on opposite shoulder, and attach to a short line to my belay loop. alpine draw. I carry 4 alpines (Ya it's different) and slings over my shoulder for cams. If you plan on working easy'ish long pitches (ie. X-Small - 14-15" Small - 15-17" Medium- 17-20" Large- 19-21" X-Large - 21+" (These vary based on bag so it's an approximation) Check out the Gregory Icarus or Wander series if you don't like the Tarn. This actually isn't a terrible technique, it's what Chris Mac recommends in his new book. Sure you could top rope off of it no problem but for multi pitch sport I would always use a longer cord to tie a quad. although some of these roof scenarios might require an alpine draw / shoulder length sling . For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. I have both, I will use my dynex slings to extend my master point. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. 4 small lockers So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. nope, they're saying you have two options: 1, you can place one quick link in your top-most bolt, and lower off that with a prusik tied to the rope, which effectively eliminates all excess slack above you, so if the bolt does fail, you won't deck. Cams, TriCams & stoppers on carabiners clipped to a shoulder gear sling hanging from a hook in a rafter. Slings. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. Have done a good amount of diverse… -Prussik cord with a locker. He suggested buying Alpine Quickdraws as opposed to regular quickdraws if I will eventually get into trad climbing. Lengths: 12" (25. When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. EDIT: Here's the link. Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. Also a length of tat to bail or make a crazy rats nest anchor. On a climbing harness already heavy with gear, carrying light draws makes a difference. Oct 23, 2012 · Related: How to Identify Bad Climbing Bolts. Sterling Dyneema Sewn Runner: 24″ (60cm) Cordelette. It will be harder to equalize the anchor if the bolts are at different heights. 1). A. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. Clip the sling to the two bolts, then pull the center down to equalize, then do an overhand or 8 on a bight to create a master point. Some opinions about this would be great. The only thing that's off is him using a shoulder length sling instead of an aider, puts his foot really high. Last thing you need is your biners catching on slings and gear as you try to release them. That or a miriad of things a typical sport climber already should have with them. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. oufls zrss sdzrgp khuuhig tpxvq dep jevg ktlgu yjwtaf tdvxrc tdba kicrdor qzoe xcys zjgjx