Climbing nuts vs hexes Nuts and hexes all have a curved side, this is for camming them in, a fall will cam them in harder. Trad climbing requires a wide array of anchor building materials, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe. These are “standard” sizes to look for when first building your rack. Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. Classic, simple, lightweight, functional pro, Black Diamond Hexes shine in rapidly widening cracks where cams might walk out. TN 1=Rockcentric 5+6, TN 2=Rock 6 Since moving back to NC, we used them rarely and when we do its usually one of the smaller sizes. Nuts appear to be rated based on the wire attached to them. How to Choose Climbing Nuts, Stoppers and Chocks. But no crack is truly parrallel so you should find a spot to place a bomber hex somewhere on the route. Saved Content. I think the usefulness of hexes is very dependant on where you climb. ” An extensive set of nuts, rocks, and hexes is imperative if you’re looking to improve your climbing ability beyond the basics—any pro climber will tell you that. Moved Permanently. There’s also the question of how much gear you actually need to get started—a decision that must balance your own financial constraints with the common fear of not having enough gear to make it to the Similar to nuts, Figure 15 shows that hexes have much better weight efficiency than SLCDs as well. the size 1-4 Torques are pretty much similar to the wild country rocks 11-14, so they are great for the bigger sizes. Of course this is mainly just snobbery as hexes remain useful in certain conditions even for a climber with a full set of cams. May 17, 2024 · Micro-nuts, as you might expect, are smaller nuts. $12. Hex Nuts Hex nuts are a common fastener with a hexagon exterior. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. Aug 12, 2004 · Interesting you trust cams more than nuts or hexes, I'm the complete opposite. Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. 6 out of 5 stars. I rarely use the hexes, occasionally use the tricams, often use the nuts, and same for my new cams. We tested all of the products in our review in a variety of rock types in places like Squamish, Eldorado Canyon, Yosemite Valley, the North Cascades, Smith Rocks, Red Rock, Joshua Tree, Zion, and more. To be removed from a crack, a nut will need to reverse the way it went in. com/en-GB/stores/ Apr 23, 2022 · Nuts, Hexes and Tricams for Rock Climbinghttps://rockclimb. Think of micro-nuts as a last resort—you need a piece of gear and the only option is the tiniest crack where only a micro-nut fits. Offset Nuts: Rather than curved surfaces, these feature a wedge with a top-to-bottom taper and a front-to-back taper. As ascensions become steeper and higher, it will be necessary to provide yourself with extra protection by wedging nuts into the cracks in the rock, therefore affording more Nov 12, 2019 · As an emergency extender the dyneema works better (basically the previous point) if extending a nut. Aug 8, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . While there are several different types of passive pro, including hexes, chocks, and Tricams, the most common type is the nut, also called a stopper. But like all that shiny climbing gear, they are a tool that have their limitations. Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. Cams are certainly easier, quicker and more confidence inducing but well placed passive pro is bomber. hexes are lighter than cams and harder to place on lead as anything other than large nuts so they are a good lightweight option to have on hand for extra anchor pieces, and when you are setting up and anchor they are far more versatile than cams and can be placed actively or passively, can be slung around a boulder or chockstone Oct 31, 2024 · This review focuses on climbing nuts used for protecting traditional free climbing routes as well as for aid and big wall routes. Jan 8, 2024 · Write for UKH . Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Black Diamond Wired Hexentrics Hex. The reason behind this was that someone trying to make their own at home wasn’t very accurate as cutting and made it by accident as realised that the eccentric shape work Jun 23, 2022 · In reply to. In the sizes that nuts are available on wire, then I think nuts are better, but if the question were hexes versus cams, when getting to say a 2. This design makes it more convenient to use tools such as wrenches and can provide greater torque. glenmorelodge. There are usually more options for placing cams than nuts, so it’s better to place nuts when you can and save the cams for later. WC every day for me. No Nuts & Hexes; Nuts & Hexes. For unknown long climbs . They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit different cracks and offer versatile protection. I have a friend who climbs in JTree a lot, and he swears to them so presumably there is a geological feature there that eats them as well. If this doesn't work, tap it from below with your nut tool. Just smack the side of the nut tool repeatedly against the hex the opposite way it was set until you jar it loose. Climbing Anchors Ltd (“Climbing Anchors”, “we”, “us”, “our”) is committed to protecting your privacy. Aug 20, 2018 · Visit our website http://www. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. climbinganchors. Curved nuts have a concave face on one side and a convex face on the other. The result is a nut that not only looks good but maximises the camming expansion - this is especially noticeable in horizontal placements. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search In reply to benmason: In the states you often see climbers carrying mainly cams and only a few nuts, maybe a maximum of 10. 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. May 31, 2020 · Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! https://www. Hexes are large, hollow, hexagonal metal tubes that can be placed in either a passive orientation—simply wedged into a crack like a nut—or in an active orientation, in which case the cable or sling of the hex extends from either its right or left side. A typical trad rack will contain 10-12 nuts and maybe one or two mid-size hexes. 25” wide—and go up to about 1. Have also used hexes a belay stations to save cams and used hexes to bail off routes in emergency. Usually one or two hits and it rattles loose. Most commonly, a carabiner will be used to join the hex to the climbing rope by means of a loop of webbing, cord or a cable which is part of the hex. Free Climbing-Sport and Trad are both forms of free climbing. Often, a little wiggle will unseat the nut, enabling it to be pushed up and out. If that doesn't work either, hold your nut tool under the nut and hit it with a big hex. They offer some camming ability in parallel cracks. Therefore we've been thinking on buying maybe one big Hex or blue DMM's torque nut just in case we might need something so big for the route. . Going back to your point on cams not being necessary below VS. Equip yourself with top gear from Black Diamond and DMM. Hexes are a type of nut, a hollow eccentric hexagonal prism with tapered ends, usually threaded with webbing, a swaged cable, or a cord. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin Shop for climbing hexes at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. A hex can be removed the same way as a nut in most cases. May 1, 2022 · Cams, nuts, tricams, hexes, stoppers, ball nuts, and tube chocks are all categories of gear that climbers wedge securely into cracks and pockets. Generally use whatever I can place fastest, so use cams regularly, unless there is a slot which I can see a nut will just slip into without faffing. Same thing when I did own the Torque Nuts before I sold them in favor of the Rockcentrics. Dec 18, 2024 · 1. com. Here’s what you need to know about these essential tools: 1. uk or call us on 01479 861256This film is part of a series of 17 films. ive used both torque nuts and rockcentrics and the torques overlap 2 rockcentric sizes i. Jun 3, 2020 · Let me clarify. e. Also there has been talk about buying whole DMM torque set (4 pieces) to supplement our cams for belays, and save cams for hard climbing. No reviews. Black Diamond Hexes are nowadays only available on "floppy" wire (for better camming placements). Aug 31, 2016 · Saved Content. I'm still pretty new at trad climbing and I was a hex sceptic until the other day - I went climbing somewhere different to my usual haunt - a rather exposed cliff where the erosion had scooped out the most marvellous hex placements - absolutely bomber! I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). Setting In reply to Roger Irrelevant: i have a full set of nuts (1-10) and then went a bought the torque nuts. au or at a Climbing Anchors retail store. Choose options Quick view. video-----Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the pro Passive camming. The old age question we been asking since the start!!. If you are carrying hexes make them strong enough to use. Place the nut with the cable facing in the direction of pull if you were to take a fall, which is generally down and slightly out. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. They are manufactured by several firms, with a range of Sep 5, 2010 · If these are hexes that you want to use on your rack then suppose it'll cost you 10 or 15 quid for the tape/cord. CLIMBING NUTS, CAMS AND HEXES. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. Micro Nuts. g. They aren’t quite as strong as standard nuts, but they’re certainly strong enough to hold some if not most climbing falls. Although large nuts like these have been superseded to a certain extent by camming devices, there are nevertheless many instances where camming devices are not as secure as a well placed "Hex", and every climber should know how to use them. This shape is considered more secure in flares and pin scars. It is always best to extend nut or hex placements with a quickdraw or an extended alpine draw, according to the anticipated direction of the climb. Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. A handful of cams in the bigger sizes (BD #1-3) wouldn't be the worst idea though. DMM DMM Wallnut Trad Climbing Nut - 10. Smaller than a standard nut, it's used in thin cracks and old piton scars. People learn with nuts, thus hexes get bought as giant nuts. Sep 22, 2009 · "What the Torque Nuts achieve is a combination of curves and pivot points which allow the nut to cam correctly. Sale price $49. Also by carefully calculating the relative side angles the expansion range is increased. Tricams have a reputation for being fiddly and slow to place, thus people buy cams instead. cb294:. Its really amazing what folks buy on ebay! Active Protection consists of Spring-Loaded Camming Devices (cams), active Tri-Cam placements, active hex nut placements, and sliding ball-nuts. Lightweight aluminium alloy construction means that despite their low weight, each Torque Nut has a 14kN strength rating. hwl wigpt pzjcto qcdkbw bmueyv bugc ptaghlpsw wfeobrjl omxev fahxx yinsn wwqeuqf agb vmuoal fnhqbbqx