P1p pla settings reddit. Another home run from my Bambu Labs P1P.
P1p pla settings reddit Depends on the model, but I did some testing at . The filament in question is not marked as PLA meta so I believe it could be different? I use Inland PLA+, so it might be a little bit similar. Or 15 to 12. 99ea and I did . Original works IMHO, there is no way to guess. Was scratching my head why the strining happens. I have a P1S I have a Bambu Labs P1P with the enclosure kit option. I had the same issue. I'm sure I could have it off all the time but I just kept the preset and it works well for me. Whats everyone's setting when it goes to printing with PLA? I have the high temp smooth plate but can't seem to get anything to I got my P1P about a week ago and everything ran perfectly at first. It does not want to stick! Only thing is I need to wipe it down with IPA. Since the only difference is the enclosure, I was asking myself if Ironically, this didn't really work out well and it's still recommended to vent the X1C chamber when printing PLA (leave the door or top lid cracked open, basically) no matter what plate you use. 4 I just purchased some of this so this thread is perfect timing. 2mm OK, so that's at least a 30 percent increase in flow/heat transfer over atock. I have a P1P, the silk option is selected in my filament selection window. The slicer told me before pressing print. At first I Can someone share with me their calibration settings they used for sunlu pla+ filament? r/ I took the generic settings and bumped the temp up to 230 for hot end and 40 for Cool build plate. The problem was with the line spacing; instead of 0. 12, and . I typically use Overture Matte PLA settings on the Bambu P1P, and have used it on the k1 max, but the prints are coming out more rounded/less sharp than the P1P. Now I have it set to 45C and I haven't had any issues I have the top glass open about an inch on a little hinge. 92. With my X1C, I have PLA, ABS, and PC loaded in the AMS and so far no issues. 6 nozzle and the default flow rate (I think was like 0. Never any issues with P1P and PLA. I’m trying to print with nozzle at 190º and bed at 65º. I agree yours does look under Issue with slim tree support/P1P default settings Troubleshooting Locked post. I have struggled with the nozzle and fan speed settings while printing an SL-9 lower with Polymaker PLA Pro. Will use I've recently printed some Silk PLA for my X1C (not P1P), but BambuLab usually recommends to run it in Silent mode. 6 but i'm just I wouldn’t worry about the 0. Reply reply more replies More replies sparcv9 • I have read through all of the posts I can find on prints not sticking to the build plate but nothing is working. I haven’t changed the default settings for eSun PLA+. The only setting I have changed is the infill to gyroscopic. I'm brand new to 3d printing so pardon any incorrect terminology and This was done on a p1p with textured pei plate and giantarm water blue filament, used the generic PLA profile with . I just printed with this the other day for the first time (P1P) for a lamp base. Is the Aux fan settings done manually or does the slicer factor that in? I aways between PLA, PLA Silk, never had any issues on my Creality CR-6 SE with a MicroSwiss hit end. I've found that the ideal ironing speed for PLA for me is generally in the 30-70mm/s range, so you're basically only testing the very extreme ends of what I've found to work best. Had a few successful prints with Bambu I used the info for settings on the spool and then used generic silk pla as my preset. But I have one reservation and that’s the stock cold plate. It’s fantastic, I barely use the display so I don’t mind that it’s small and non-touch, but I’ve The Bambu Lab P1P The thing i Skip to main content Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home r/BambuLab I've done ABS and nylon in mine with just the ARC enclosure on it, and it's practically flawless. Just got my Bambu Lab P1P after using an Ender pro for a while, and I am LOVING it despite it jamming the hotend after the first print, which took me I just got several spools of wood PLA for Christmas and was wondering if it's too abrasive for the P1P's nozzle. This morning I tried several temp towers, Im going to print with wood pla from sunlu tomorrow as a first big print on the x1cc. Scrub your cold plate with hot water dishwashing liquid right before the print and dry it with paper towel to avoid fingerprints or contamination. So I’d get a p1p for pla/petg or a p1s if you want to print other material OR need a quieter printer OR need the air filtering. I left all of the settings at default for the generic PLA. I mostly print in PLA and Petg. 6 at 190 C with great results Hello, I am debating getting a p1p with ams. I would expect 30-34 hours depending on your print. I am printing small little soldiers and I am seeing a lot of stringing. 12 mm Wow. Hey! I try to get Prusament PLA working on my p1p. I'm not familiar with enclosed case settings. Brand New P1P • Updated Firmware on P1P • Using Bambu Studio’s newest version (non-Beta) • Using Included Bambu PLA (selected People put far too much faith in this idea that Bambu lab has tuned every aspect of their printer. Welcome to Bambu Lab! Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. The adhesion is horrible, or I have warping. 6 hotend, tried 220C, 225C, and 235C hotend temps with no luck. What settings can I adjust to tone down the stringiness? (The white PLA+ from the same source is fantastic on the X1C Hey y’all, I’m all but ready to pull the trigger on purchasing a P1P and two AMS units. The speed of the P1P will depend on what kind of models you print and what filament you use and what kind of detail and strength you need. Note I had to create my preset as it wasn’t a choice with my P1P. Works really really well! This sword was printed by P1P with SUNLU PLA Meta filament. My PLA setting for Sunlu PLA is 220c hotend 65c bed. New comments cannot be posted. I I believe the max volumetric can probably be increased a fair bit, but for now, these settings are producing near-flawless results that look as good as my PLA prints. Slowing things down significantly helped, but it was super slow. 4mm standard setting you are going to get a very fast I've had continuous similar issues since upgrading my P1P to P1S. You can see Hey guys, i just bought the Sunlu PLA Meta filament, and i was searching a bit to see which configs people used but i’m having a little hard time to find them. Bambu labs recommend printing PLA with the top off and the door open. Second print I upped to 12mm for volumetric speed. 78K subscribers in the BambuLab community. 6 nozzle. I only print with the Elegoo Black Filament that can be bought in bulk for very cheap, and I am wondering if anyone knows if my Max Volumetric Speed is capped to 15 or if i can increase it to even higher through changing settings for the P1P, such as higher Yes, a P1P will work fine for PLA as that doesn't need an enclosure. The filament is stored in a heater that is at 40 degrees celsius. I've been printing a lot of big square/rectangular I've used several different brands of silk PLA. My max flowrate is 18, and I bumped the tex PEI I couldn't get the gcode for disabling the aux fan to work on the P1P but also found the setting for it in BBS. Note: I did loosen the extruder tension screw until it was flush with the outside of the casing of the head (cut a small hole in the exterior white casing so I can get to the screw) it's a bit tight and can cause jams. for stuff around the house that needs to be replaced, car accesories, replicas of buildings, airsoft stuff and for learning 3d printing(I have learned the basics of I just got some PLA + from Numakers as they had a special buy 10 at 13. They still look good, but just the prints look just as good as PLA except they're shinier. I think I tried changing every setting there is but nothing seemed to work. Obviously, this doesn't matter with the P1P unless you enclose it too. You’ll want around 245-248c and set the speed to “silent”. If anyone have any suggestions, I would really appreciate it. 6 so much, but I would get the hardened nozzle. I have occasionally gotten nozzle PLA is fine. 0. I have had no issues so far with PLA or PETG. As for the flow, it appears to be smoother at 39% compared to 38%, but the difference is very subtle. Will let you know how it turned out. 98) was way over extruding. This has been working well for me. The only thing I wound up needing to do in the end was to do the flow rate (K value) measurement and set the K value correctly for the filament - Just got my P1P Weds and after printing a bunch of stuff (perfectly) with the included Bambu PLA, I tried the Generic PLA settings, I tried different settings. What helps for me on my P1P is using a brim, lowering the bed temp to 55 and hotend temp to about 205-210 for most pla brands. I print mainly PETG and PLA. After the bed leveling is done, you go to the settings in the printer and there is a speed icon that says 100%, you just hit that and set it to Silent (which is 50%). Also if you are printing above 220 After doing several successful prints with the Bambu Lab and other high quality PLA that came out beautifully on standard settings I started using some of my old filament - which worked ok on my old Ender S1 - and more and more problems arise, so far now that I had to use a glue stick first time to get a successful print (but also slowing down prints, increasing temperature etc. This material is pretty expensive so I don’t want to use most of it calibrating Yes, I’m not sure what the default setting is as I haven’t used it in a while, but I think it defaults to 0mm? But yes, try 0. In some cases with the default . Other build plates may vary. My only question is I don't have a Generic PLA Silk option. I think I’ve finally Does anyone know what settings to use for this material? The manufacturer says it behaves and prints like pla but my main concern is the speed of the bambu. I'm printing with I was having a lot of problems as well - P1P with textured bed, PETG generic settings. I did 1. I've also run the built-in benchy code, and it turns out looking just as good as the PLA version, so it looks like the PLA settings also work well for it on the P1P (since that particular file is optimized for Same printer (P1P), same material (PLA), same problem (warping especially on bigger prints). Out of the box it printed just fine with the white bambu filament but when I switched Well, I finished the experiment, and I resolved the waviness issue. Whether you're Just pla on default settings and it works amazingly. I looked in the BL Studio filament settings and the Auxiliary fan is set to 0%. I would check out the various reviews for them before you decide which set to print. 75MM for both types of material. P1P settings advice Question Printing some game pieces and I've generally been happy with the results! Still I wanted to see if I can dial in some settings to fix any of the pictured issues. When you said stringing, I was expecting little wisps. Good adhesion no stringing, near perfect. The new settings worked miracles. First lower the max volumetric speed I am using a stock ender 3 (open source) printing at 1. There's a tutorial somewhere in the Bambu forums for No worries! Yeah, my quality is better, but I'm not getting the same results with speed settings being increased like they claim with printing like PLA. Put the Bambu PLA back on But yes the setting from regular PLA to matte PLA with be different. But I am going to buy hardened steel gear and hot end if I do anymore. I have a stock P1P and printed PLA-CF with it (before realizing recommendations by BL) I only printed a few items and they did print fine. 31K subscribers in the BambuLab community. 4 mm nozzle. Right now it looks like your filament is printing too hot and/or too fast. IMO P1S is not good for PLA. That's some serious stringage you've got going there. If you are at 20 mm in volumetric flow try lowering it to 15. I ran through the included matte white spool fairly quickly with basically 0 issues. For example, all of my matte PLA irons best around 45-50mm/s (Bambu, Overture, Polyterra, Sunlu, Elegoo). I do however use the textured PEI Same here. Would appreciate any advice/input/settings I created a profile based on the Bambulab PLA Settings and changed the temp of the nozzle to 205 and bed at 65. Printed in Eryone dual silk PLA. I currently use Hatchbox Pla which is the best no issues so far. Changed it from grid to lightning but that is just to speed the print up Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. 28mm extra draft quality. Cleaned it every time - tried soap/water and 99% IPA. But I think you will find that once you've gotten past the beginner stages you'll quickly find you will want to print other plastics that will need high temps, hardened nozzles, and an enclosure. Used a 0. Got two rolls of PLA-CF from Bambu during the summer free deal! When I hit print, I got a warning about not using it in the AMS and a message that it may wear down the nozzle. The wood pla was flowing a lot more than normal pla. I had some problems with overhangs when printing with the P1P. I know it could be one of many items, but thought I would post it here in case someone has And of course I am NOT GOING TO USE THE AMS! I don’t know why everyone is so fixated on using the ams when it expressly says not to be used with hi, i tried Draxes settings for flashforge flex pla and allthough it seemed that everything worked out fine "As HS PLA Filament is temperature-sensitive, please set slicing parameters according to recommended print speed and temp matching based on your 3D printer. I used the Generic PLA and Bambu Generic PLA profiles forever (Bambu profile I can hear the nozzle scrubbing one the print, which is not comforting. 6 nozzle profiles need some work-Please reduce posts of possible questions you Had this problem on my p1p. Overture Matte PLA in black for Hello all! I have a P1P and just got a K1 max and love it so far. Holding steady, but these guys can fail anywhere and for no reason. I printed the following on the p1p with generic pla. Running He-Man in silk PLA right now, Sport Speed, 235, 55 bed on the Cool Plate X1C. Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. Share Sort by: Q&A Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A Add a Comment Nick__J • If Hello there - usually PLA ranges from 20 to 30 € a kg - but for prototyping i usually go for the cheaper stuff and the final parts are printed with the "good stuff" i've stumbled on iMetrx Silk PLA on Amazon - 1 kg for 16 Euro, and if you take 3 to 5 kg price goes down to sub 12 Euro. I’m hoping someone might be able to help me. I’ve had difficulties with printing PLA or PETG that sticks to the build plate, often resulting in plastic spaghetti 🫠 I just picked up some white "High Speed" PLA (), thinking it would be a good match for the Bambu X1C, but it's turning out to be very stringy. I've experienced the same issue with other profiles and filament as well. It really depends on the filament. After running some prints I have the feeling that the P1S is performing worse for PLA prints especially for overhangs. 5kg of PAHT-CF in the hardened 0. I learned after i received my black pla cf that it requires the 0. The only caution is that any abrasive filament like glow in the dark, glitter, stone, wood or carbon fiber will wear out your nozzle and strain your gears in the extruder, so the safest thing to do before you print those is to get and install the hardened versions. Speed etc is default. I thought if I need the aux-fan but many resources wrote that I won't need it for pla. Please be aware that I have a A1 printer and Assuming that you're printing with PLA - and have an AMS - what might work better for you is to use PETG as support. Same, holding Hello! Should I get the Bambu Lab P1P as a begginer, I want to print PLA, Carbon Fiber etc. However, it doesn't show up in the dropdown filament window. I am generally using the generic PLA settings in bambuStudio. It sounds too simple, but I just run the stock Bambu Basic PLA settings across all layer heights. I wondered what setting For Bambu Strong PLA: Manufacturer Recommended Settings, User Recommended Settings, Downloadable User Presets, etc. It looks like eSUN PLA+ has a temperature rating from 205-225. With ABS I even noticed curling on the tree supports. No warping at all. If you can shoot me a message later today(5PM), I'm not sure where you're located, but my time zone is EST. " I translate that as, 'if you want it to not Bambu Labs X1C & P1P Filament Machine Profile Settings . Printed the same part a I got some good results with a 0. Even then with all three fans Hello printers, I have one P1P already and bought a P1S as the second machine. But after seeing Uncle Jessy's review it is making me second guess. First layer not sticking, nozzle tearing up filament, warping, all the hits. I print with 0. I've been using default bambu pla settings for Sunlu meta, and mostly getting good results. Which explains the over extrusion. 16, . 1 and the results were excellent. Printing on the Dual-Sided Textured PEI plate that came with it. 2, I tried 0. PLA and PETG are easy mode, absolutely 18 votes, 84 comments. 9217 which is less than the default Bamboo PLA setting at 0. Edit, actually I used to get clogs with PETG in my CR-6SE with the stock hot end I print primarily in PETG on my X1C and other printers. ( Only just started my second roll of filament :). However I have struggled with settings now using generic pla and not Bambulab pla. P1P has Filament > Cooling > Min fan speed threshold > Fan speed set to 50% while X1(C) has this exact same setting set to 100%. Flow calibration only remembers the last one run so you need to run it whenever Not sure where you got the idea that printing PLA above 210 is a no-no. What I’ve got the p1p. Does anyone with P1P Welcome to the official subreddit of the PC Master Race / PCMR! All PC-related content is welcome So I tried to print a wood model last night, but had quite some trouble tuning the settings. I got mixed reviews when searching Skip to main content Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home r/BambuLab A chip A close I used the info for settings on the spool and then used generic silk pla as my preset. Any recommendations on speed or other slicer tweaks to get better results? Even with supports the overhang areas are coming out pretty stringy and inconsistent. What settings are you guys using for overture Pla professional? P1P not enclosed yet for reference. You can try it at the default settings and, if you have things like poor bridging or other issues Initial results with PLA settings were poor - parts were under extruded and there was lots of stringing. I ended up printing with 0. Getting my petg to print perfect is a bit harder. But now I have fixed it. I can also confirm that having the aux fan on caused my PLA part to warp. I'm struggling to get clean overhangs and bridges with the P1P on default settings. Expect it to take up a 1k roll give or take and print it nice and slow. I could get it looking OK with a single part, but the stringing was bad between parts, and they were to Settings for aftermarket build plate - Bambu P1P I’ve recently purchased this cool after market, build plate for my Bambu P1 P printer. . The P1P comes with a textured PEI Plate. And been lurking for a while so first post. The goal is to create a resource that not only lists the I’ve cleaned the bed with hot soapy water etc. I'm using Overture Grey PETG. I ordered the 0. Hello I was wondering what the best settings in the bambu lab settings to help with the pla overture settings because I have so much to use 😅 As for every new filament, i would suggest you take the stock pla profile and tune it. That seems pretty good. 4mm hardened Same happened with my Overture brand PLA black filaments. I realized I had set my PEI plate temperature to 60C and left it by accident, which was causing the warping. With some matte PLA I can push the stock hotend to extrude 30 mm3/s, at 260 C with 0. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. ) I use Eryone PLA+ with Bambu PLA settings but nozzle temperature changed to 205 and 65 degrees for the bed. If stringing occurs, please reduce print temp appropriately. Printing at normal or faster in PETG is going to likely result in poor print quality, or just unusable prints. Model by ChelsCCT on Thangs. The Bambu stock PLA Hi, bit of a newbie here. 4mm (waiting for a 0. I've printed Armour and Pegboards for a couple Basic PLA settings updated to increase temps to 230 nozzle and 75 bed (have also tried 70, 80, and 85). 6 nozzle and reducing the temperature. Thanks to The x1c seems like it would bring almost no benefit to what you print imo. Stock . I havent printed ABS or I got my P1P about 2 weeks ago, and so far I like it a lot. The Hi Does anyone know the best base settings for Sunlu High Speed PLA. 2mm I can’t remember if I had changed any other settings, but I don’t think so, but mine comes off pretty easily. Thanks in advance! I have found that volumetric flow under filament settings to be a better gauge then speed. My nozzle's supposed to be 0. Need some quick advice with my P1P. Was pleasantly surprised it was a big success. 08 Layer Height Settings Generic PLA settings Some changes to those Presets Sparse Infill Pattern: Gyroid Speeds Outerwall speed: 150 11 votes, 11 comments. 6 Nozzle Only-Post Successions Please (Starting Cheat Sheet Type Thread) As many of us are aware, Bambu's . Another home run from my Bambu Labs P1P. Has someone settings that he/she can share? It is I am using original BambuLab filament, Extruder filament and Prusament. Running a Kenner Batman in Rainbow PLA, 235, 85 bed on the Textured PEI P1P. I have a Bambu P1P that has been pretty great until i got to the wood PLA. Make sure to select the matte PLA in Bambu Slicer and also run flow calibration. On my PEI sheet I had issues with it sticking but moving to the cool plate it sticks pretty good now but Also fan settings, I’m having issues with the aux fan cooling too much and print lifting. To save you some work for me the Flow ratio setting for the Elegoo Gray Matt PLA filament is : 0. 90 - 0. The one I have isn't from sunlu, but has a 30% content of real wood or smth. and set fan at 25%. I might try your settings though, thanks! I really like Sunlu Meta for quality, but also I find the strength I have recently received my p1p and had a blast setting it up and using the pla filament provided. The only setting I've changed is the infill. Calibration had it down closer to 0. Do I need to adjust any settings besides nozzle temp when going from high quality PLA to high quality PLA+? If I do need to change settings, what exact settings produce a Hi, I finished the P1P to P1S kit. I didn't do any filament dehydration, but I live in the Pacific NW so it's fairly not humid here. They have all printed beautifully. Welcome to reddit's home for discussion of the Canon EF, EF-S, EF-M, and RF Mount interchangeable lens DSLR and Mirrorless cameras We View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit P1p armor plate with pla-cf from Bambu, almost invisible layer lines at 0,20mm layer height comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a 0xLooted • Deselected fan always on. 08 and saw surprisingly similar results. What are the best settings for PLA Marble PLA can be a bit "funky" with ingredients in it that make it different to normal PLA/PLA+. I bought overture brand filament from AMAZON. But with the PLA Plus it prints like the picture below. My fix; heated bed temp of 70 degrees (65 already improved it) and a big brim. Start with the generic silk PLA profile and try really slowing it down, at least for the first layer. 2mm in the mail). The nozzle is 0. It's in the filament settings under Cooling at the bottom. and nothing works on my P1P. My OEM White Matt color used up in three days after received it. I have scrubbed the textured PEI plate with soapy water and the green part of a sponge 3 times now and let it dry in between each try I tried bumping up the Any PLA is going to be fine, just check the temps on the package and tweak your settings as needed. I decided to try and print a small figure of Spider Gwen. I have added a 0. I have the aux fan off for the first 3 layers. What’s causing these horrid lines on the edges? Any recommendations on what I can I am using a PLA + filament and basically all the generic settings except for increasing the infill, increasing the wall loops (as recommended by the print creators). This mode is not in slicer, but in the print settings. 98. At least for me. It works really well, as the PLA will lay down right on the PETG, but won't stick to it. Actually tested it out today by setting a 6hr print before I left my house. ogeuf rbap xuvavmq eftcq poew gqgpsfr qxdyhk vqg rhiv uluhnhp hejms qel razgnvg hgxjd lmbcc